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Exhibition Vivariums
A series of exhibition cages, uniformly stacked or arranged in tiers, lighted from the inside or from without, can form an extremely attractive display of reptiles. A well-constructed wooden box can be converted into a suitable cage with a few tools and a little effort. The better method, however, is to plan on paper exactly what you want the finished product to look like, carefully note the measurements of the cage's components, then go to a lumber yard and select the wood. Ordinary commercial shelving is a little less than a foot wide and can be purchased in many grades. It is easily handled and wills serve very well for the bottom, sides, and even top of the cage. Four pieces cut to a specified size, can be nailed together to form the framework. The back can consist of a section of pegboard, nailed securely to the four sides. In the front, two pieces of right angle counter top binding strips can be fastened to accept the sliding pane of glass which will open from either side. THe floor of the cage may be covered with a strip of paper toweling, a water dish added, and one has an acceptable display case in which the majority of snakes will thrive for years.
The above instructions cover the construction of the simpliest kind of cage, yet one which suits very well the needs of most snakes. All sorts of refinements and modifications can be made. Do not be afraid to use your imagination. The dimensions of the cage described will often be about two feet in length and a foot high. It provides good ventilation and can be easily and thoroughly cleaned. Food can be introduced from either end, and the occupant is perfectly visible. One may wish to have a hinged cover of hardware cloth, or glass which slides up and down rahter than sideways and can be locked in place with an overhanging cover that is provided with a hasp. Cages can be painted or stained in any desired color and thoroughly waterproofed with a coat non-toxic clear sealer. A hoodlike arrangement over the top canb e constructed to provide concealed lighting and some heat as well. Screening should not be used anywhere in the construction of a snake cage, for there are only a few snakes which will not rub their snouts raw in attempting to nose their way through it. Hardware cloth of suitable mesh size is better, but even this can cause damage. I recommend pegboard as a better substitute for screen or hardware cloth.
Exhibition cages should have no opening through which it is possible for a snake to gain exit. And be aware that captive snakes ofter give birth to babies that are able to squeeze through the smallest holes.
Cages for poisonous snakes should have sliding partitions to permit the locking of the inmates in one side while the other side is being cleaned. They should be handled as little as possible, both as a safety precaution and because of the fact that most of them are very tempermental and are likely to go off their feed if unduly disturbed. If it is necessary to remove a speciem from its cage, do so with a snake hook. Many book give the impression that a snake will wind itself about the end of the hook and not attempt to escape or fall off. This cannot be depended upon. Snakes, especially juveniles, will often lose their balance and fall to the floor when being transferred with a hook. Such a fall, particularly in the cases of a heavy bodied snake, is likely to result in an injury which may not be apparent at once but is ultimately fatal. Because of this, it is recommended that the cage be placed on the floor before removing the specimen. Most venomous snakes can be gently guided from one container to another without any physical restraint. Harmelss snakes may be placed in a bag during cage cleaning, if they are large, they nay be allowed to crawl about and get some exercise.
The exhibition type of cage may be provided with a small box which allows the occupants to remain out of sight when it desires seclusion. It is almost a necessity for a few of the more nervous species, and is recommmended for all. They need a place to get away from all the commotion outside the cage. This "hide" box will make them feel secure and less nervous. This is good for the overall health of any herp.
Exhibition cages must be provided with a container for drinking water. Some species drink ofter, others only rarely. I recommend the heavy crock bowls soldin pet stores as dog bowls. These are heavy enough so as not to be tipped over, and come in a variety of sizes that will fit your herp's needs.
A rock to assist in skin shedding must be placed in an exhibition cage, and a single tree branch may be added for snakes which climb. Exhibition cages can be constructed in any size desired. One that is three fett long and half as wide will house comfortably the largest snakes found in the United States. Their glass fronts may be cleaned easily, inside and out, by simply reversing the surfaces.
By far the best heating arrangements for a collection of reptiles is a central one which can be controlled with a thermostat. A range of 70 to 90 degrees is suitable for nearly all snakes, the higher range for the more tropical kinds. A nightly drop is permissable, but 65 degrees is the point of dnager for non-hibernating snakes in captivity. Snakes may regularly encounter much lower termperatures in the natural state, without ill effects, but catives seem to lack the ability to do so, although otherwise very healthy. In the absence of a better heating method, strategically placed light bulbs of the appropriate wattage can be used to maintain suitable cage termperatures. Do not attempt to maintain a collection of reptiles without a good means of controlling temperature.